Saturday Morning Surfing

So I got up this Saturday morning and decided to (duh) surf again. Hauled my board down to Waikiki beach and it was an AMAZING day. I saw the bright sun gently touching the soft sand and bunches of sun bathers were hogging the sun by casting their shadows. The water was a sparkling blue with a touch of green. Just beautiful. I took another look at the beach bums. I was like, lazy buggers! Then I jumped in and paddled out to the horizon where I saw a couple of waves, but by the time I got there the waves were gone and were crashing much more inland. Fiddlesticks. The tourists on a massive catamaran were staring at me and taking pictures. I gave them a wave (I was the one who needed a wave), but I could imagine the news, "Newbie surfer gets run over by catamaran." I furiously paddled out of the way till I was pooped. After chilling for a bit, I realized I probably should paddle back since I'd take me a while to get back against the current. While leasurely paddling back, I thought what is it that guarantees the success at anything, whether it be career, sports, getting laid, or even making a difference. The answer is simple. Its just pure ATTEMPTS! "Just keep at it," we have all heard that, but its actually not that simple. While doing multiple attempts, there one thing you, as a master of his/her life, have to deal with.

Variable Change

Simply saying, things change and you gotta adapt and you gotta adapt fast! I struggle at this cause I am a person who's works through his heart. If I believe in what I am doing, I will keep going against the odds. As oppose to a person who works with his/her mind, who'll know when to give up and choose his/her battles wisely. Lets me give you an example, I hurt my right knee really badly running a half-marathon in beginning of Feb in Maui Run for the whales marathon. Before the injury, I was going at a break neck pace into getting into peak shape. I had lost 20 lbs in about 5 months and gain a tremdous amount of fitness (I ran a marathon in Dec 07). I was running 7 miles a day and I was tireless. I had to contain myself, hold myself back, otherwise, I'd keep running till I touched the horizon. Well, until my knee broke. Since then I been in a spiral till now. And the old me would still be in a spiral until my knee totally healed. Behold, I am different now, I can deal with variable change which in this case is my bad knee. After waiting for a month to the knee to improve, in March I started swimming at the campbell community center. If my legs don't work, I'll use my arms! It didn't come naturally. I still spent time running on a bad knee, thereby delaying its recovery. Now I am surfing almost everyday and paddling MILES and MILES! It was slow though cause I was depressed from my injury and started to lose the drive. Those pesky emotions! This whole change was slow, cause I was so dedicated to running and running FAST that I just didn't want to give up that goal. Well, a person thinking with his/her mind will find this change obvious and that person (maybe YOU) are better adapted to live life and what it throws at you.

Just then I hit a reef! Can you believe like hundred yards out there was a reef about 1 foot deep? I was stuck!! Also, my arms were running out of juice paddling for so long. I look at the guys in kayaks with a sneer, (variable change) got off my board, lifted it up and threw it over the reef and was off in 30 seconds. Cha-Ching!